After the last portage on the Adlatok, we began our 14-mile ocean paddle to Hopedale, flanked by the rugged, treeless terrain of the Labrador coast. When we felt wind on the back of our necks, we ...

Continuing through lakes and wide island-studded stretches of river, we pushed on until we reached Lac Aux Goelands. We saw no signs of people on this sprawling wilderness lake, which is 20 miles long ...